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Multi-course travel through Norway

January 22, 2025

I was sleeping soundly under a great mountain of sheets and blankets in middle-of-nowhere Norway with the terrace door slightly open letting in the crisp, clean 50-degree air.

“Are you (expletive) kidding me?” David exclaimed, not quietly.

I jumped up immediately. “What? What’s wrong!?”

“There’s a giant cruise ship coming down the fjord, lit up like the Vegas strip. Unbelievable.”

That sums up the dichotomy of Norway. The most peaceful, naturally beautiful, most remote places on earth with sudden bursts of gawdy tourism.

Traveling to Norway is much like a tasting menu. You can opt for the three-course, five-course or the “multi-hour, who can possibly ever eat like this, I’m actually in pain right now” eight-course experience.

We went with five courses, plus a perfect supplement of Copenhagen.

The Three-Course

  • • Oslo to Bergen
  • • Bergen to Flåm on the Flåmsbana Train/Flåm Railway to Flåm (very touristy and not a lot of food options, FYI)
  • • Fjord cruise through Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord to the Viking village of Gudvangen
  • • Back to Bergen (via car for a different perspective)

Why this is good:

This is the shortest course, with the least amount of airplane travel, and gives the chance to experience both Bergen and Oslo and cruise along the deepest and one of the most beautiful fjords.

Oslo is really a two-day town, and you can cover most of the best areas in a half-day walking tour (most recommended) including the city hall, museums (if you’re into that, there is the National Museum, the Folk Museum and the Munch museum), the harbor, the Opera House, palace park and the parade street. The Vigeland sculpture park is also a fun visit, reached easily by taxi or bike.

Oslo

Bergen is a beautiful, not-to-be-missed town that can also be seen in a half-day walking tour, including the fish market and Bryggen, paired with the funicular ride (or hike up or down) to Mount Floyen. Unfortunately, the cruise ships also believe Bergen is not-to-be-missed, and many times there will be more than one of them in the harbor. That’s why the town is best for a three-day visit so you can find time to explore the charming city without cruise ship crowds.

The Flåm Railway and fjord cruise are very touristy but a must. If you didn’t, it would be the equivalent of going to New York City for the first time and not visiting Times Square or Central Park.

What this misses:

Norway is a very remote country with spectacular natural beauty that’s impossible to capture with a camera, and part of that beauty is the complete and utter lack of people. If you just see Oslo and Bergen with a fjord cruise, there are guaranteed to be a lot of people and the majority of them tourists. From the fjord cruise, there is only a glimpse of the very remote villages and their existence.

Side notes:

The 20 km Bergen Line runs through the Flåmsdalen valley and connects to Sognefjord. The Flåm Railway is considered one of the world’s most beautiful train journeys. It’s known for its steep gradient and tunnels (20 tunnels, including one that makes a 180 degree turn inside of a mountain).

The Sognefjord is Norway’s deepest and longest fjord, also known as the “King of the Fjords.” Pick the right boat for a cruise – one that has panoramic windows and a sun deck (although not sure sun deck is the best descriptor since Norway is also known for its rain).

Flamsbana

Bergen

Fjord Cruise

The Five-Course

The five-course menu includes the above plus the addition of a plane to Ålesund, another beautiful remote village. We stayed about 45 minutes outside of Ålesund, literally in the middle of nowhere on a beautiful fjord. The hotel experience at Storfjord Hotel was absolutely incredible and gives a taste of Norway’s stunning beauty.

The town of Ålesund is worth a short visit, and there are a few nice small hotels in town as well. In addition to the village, the area gives you an opportunity to explore any or all of the following: Eagle Road, Geiranger (beware, the tiny village can be overrun with cruise ships), Hellesylt and the Norangsdalen valley.

If visiting in the summer and there are freshly picked strawberries, DO NOT MISS THEM. These strawberries are the best “will ruin you from ever liking any other strawberry” strawberries you’ll ever have in your life.

What this misses:

Lofoten Islands and the small fishing villages, which if added to the itinerary become your eight-course meal. This is also one of the most popular places to see the northern lights. But, be warned, the hotel options in Lofoten are best described as rustic chic.

Lofoten is best if you enjoy the outdoors and outdoor activities, like kayaking, hiking, etc.

Storfjord

Ålesund

The Freshest Strawberries

The eight-course meal requires about 12-14 days, with a lot of airplane transport.

The alternate five-course itinerary is to skip the Bergen, etc. leg and just fly straight to Lofoten, although one of our favorite parts of the trip was the stay on the fjord for a few days of magical peace and dramatic beauty. Sans the middle of the night cruise ship sighting, that is.

I guess the other option to see Norway would be a (it pains me just to type it) cruise ship. My personal feelings aside, I won’t judge a cruise ship trip (well… maybe a little).

Bergen

Hotels:

Hotel Continental

Storfjord Hotel

Ålesund

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